'If you're going to write a negative review, you better have a bloody good reason for it.' After more than 25 years of reviewing restaurants, Britain’s @​jayrayner1 explains how the pandemic transformed his approach to criticism — and the places he won’t go near ↧ Jay Rayner on the responsibility of restaurant criticism The veteran British food critic discusses his new book, how the pandemic changed his approach to negative reviews, and the places he won’t cover.